'Better drowned than duffers, if not duffers won't drown.'
Arthur Ransome, Swallows and Amazons
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| Myself and my sister sailing Mlulu in Esterpona harbour. |
Sailing background
Back on dry land by JoJo
Summer 2015, back in the UK
After our mad dash to Grenada and a quick pack up of Island Swift (hope we did a good job) we were back in the UK just in time. Simon's Dad was very ill and sadly died two days after we got back. He was at home with all his family around him. I am just so very grateful that we got back in time, and that we were not in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, which had been the plan. Simon then spent two lovely sunny afternoons with his Mum, Elsie. Sadly she suddenly got very ill and died a few days later, exactly one week after Ken. So very sad for us all, but so romantic for them after being married for 67 years. I loved Ken and Elsie very much and was not prepared for how emotional I became. They had a beautiful joint funeral.
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| Ken and Elsie |
Coming home by Lochlann
Summer 2015
The prospect of coming back to the UK had been hanging over us since we had arrived at the Caribbean. Decisions were made, scrapped and frequently forgotten. In the end we had made the
irrevocable agreement (because mum books the flights) that we would leave the boat at a boatyard and fly back home.
The prospect of coming back to the UK had been hanging over us since we had arrived at the Caribbean. Decisions were made, scrapped and frequently forgotten. In the end we had made the
irrevocable agreement (because mum books the flights) that we would leave the boat at a boatyard and fly back home.
But as we were slowly island-hopping south
towards Grenada (the island where we were going to leave the boat) we received
an email from Dad’s sister Miranda. My grandfather Boppa was extremely ill and
the doctors said he was too frail to operate upon. Boppa had been diagnosed
with Parkinson’s disease a few years earlier, and we had been worried about
leaving England in the first place. So now we raced across the ocean straight
to Grenada as fast as we could go.
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| Ken and Elsie |
Packing away for the hurricane season by Jojo
Passage from St Lucia to Grenada, May 2015
We were making our way slowly down the Windward Islands towards Grenada, where it was planned that we would leave Island Swift for the hurricane season. The hurricane season goes from the beginning of June to the end of November. Although we are not planning on working this summer, we still needed to go home for important things like peanut butter and family weddings!
We were making our way slowly down the Windward Islands towards Grenada, where it was planned that we would leave Island Swift for the hurricane season. The hurricane season goes from the beginning of June to the end of November. Although we are not planning on working this summer, we still needed to go home for important things like peanut butter and family weddings!
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| Sunset in the Caribbean |
Caribbean Sailing by JoJo
Caribbean May 2015
As I write this blog we are anchored in Soufriere Bay, below the stunning Pitons mountains on St Lucia in the windward islands of the Caribbean. Simon has just climbed to the top of Petit Piton. We could see him through the binoculars! Finbar is studying his OU Maths course, learning about calculus. Lochlann is playing the piano, teaching himself how to play The William Tell Overture. We have been in the Caribbean for nearly two months now, and life is good.
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| St Lucia Mountains Los Pitons - JoJo |
Our first month in the Caribbean by Lochlann
Caribbean April 2016
We had been in the Caribbean for over a week and had been cruising up the Martinique coast thinking “WOW!!!!!!” when we visited the site of my downfall.
We had been in the Caribbean for over a week and had been cruising up the Martinique coast thinking “WOW!!!!!!” when we visited the site of my downfall.
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| Lochlann |
Crossing the Atlantic Crossing by JoJo
Passage Island of Sao Vincente in Cape Verde to Martinique in the Caribbean February 2015
Our dream was to sail across the Atlantic Ocean to the Caribbean. Although I had already crossed the Atlantic Ocean twice before, this would be the first time as an adult and skipper (a big responsibility!).
Our dream was to sail across the Atlantic Ocean to the Caribbean. Although I had already crossed the Atlantic Ocean twice before, this would be the first time as an adult and skipper (a big responsibility!).
Atlantic Crossing by Lochlann
Passage Island of Sao Vincente in Cape Verde to Martinique in the Caribbean February 2015
When we left the Cape Verde to cross the Atlantic I felt that we had finally succeeded in our dream. We had talked, planned, discussed, argued and eventually agreed about going to the Caribbean, and now we were actually leaving.
When we left the Cape Verde to cross the Atlantic I felt that we had finally succeeded in our dream. We had talked, planned, discussed, argued and eventually agreed about going to the Caribbean, and now we were actually leaving.
Racundra's Last Cruise Published by Marine Quarterly
The article was published by Marine Quarterly in the Spring 2015 edition and Mixed Moss The journal of the Arthur Ransome Society 2016
The wind was howling around the roof of my house in Penzance one stormy day last winter, and I was feeling happy to be safe on dry land. I was in the attic sorting through some boxes when I came across a couple of letters that my father, Rod Pickering, wrote to my family about the beautiful sailing boat Racundra.
The wind was howling around the roof of my house in Penzance one stormy day last winter, and I was feeling happy to be safe on dry land. I was in the attic sorting through some boxes when I came across a couple of letters that my father, Rod Pickering, wrote to my family about the beautiful sailing boat Racundra.
Racundra was built for Arthur Ransome of ‘Swallows and Amazons’ fame in Riga in 1922, and is immortalised in his wonderful book ‘Racundra’s First Cruise. Adlard Coles bought her, renamed her Annette II, and wrote about her in his book Close-Hauled. She was renamed Racundra after Adlard Coles sold her. She passed through various different hands and fell into obscurity. My father was her fourteenth - and last - owner.
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| The only photo I have of Racundra. This is the pic my father took when he 'found' her in Tangiers, Morrocco. |
Canaries to Cape Verde by JoJo
Passage Canaries to Cape Verde, January 2015
We have been late ever since we left England on 2nd September, last year. Most yachts leave the Canaries at the beginning of December for the Caribbean. I did not want to cross the Atlantic until after Christmas so as to ensure that the trade winds were well settled in. So I did not particularly want to be early, but we now found ourselves in Mindelo, in Cape Verde in mid-February. The main reason for this has been waiting for good weather windows. Not perfect weather, but trying to avoid big swell and strong winds. Despite this, we have had strong winds since leaving Madeira!
We have been late ever since we left England on 2nd September, last year. Most yachts leave the Canaries at the beginning of December for the Caribbean. I did not want to cross the Atlantic until after Christmas so as to ensure that the trade winds were well settled in. So I did not particularly want to be early, but we now found ourselves in Mindelo, in Cape Verde in mid-February. The main reason for this has been waiting for good weather windows. Not perfect weather, but trying to avoid big swell and strong winds. Despite this, we have had strong winds since leaving Madeira!
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| Arriving at Cape Verde. |
Passage to Cape Verde and Mindelo by Lochlann
Passage Canaries to Cape Verde, January 2015
There was a lot of discussion in the family before leaving Las Palmas. We talked about sailing back to Cornwall after the Caribbean, then renting out the house and leaving again as soon as possible. But first we had to get to the Carribean ASAP, ensuring that we could spend the maximum time there.
There was a lot of discussion in the family before leaving Las Palmas. We talked about sailing back to Cornwall after the Caribbean, then renting out the house and leaving again as soon as possible. But first we had to get to the Carribean ASAP, ensuring that we could spend the maximum time there.
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| Sailing along towards the Cape Verde, on the last day as conditions moderate. |
Mindelo by JoJo
Mindel on the island of Sao Vincente, Cape Verde February 2015
Mindelo on the island of Sao Vicente, in the Cape Verde is situated off the west coast of Africa. It is is the main port in the Cape Verde and the best anchorage. These islands are increasingly being visited by yachtsmen of all nationalities. I have wanted to visit ever since my father wrote about his unscheduled visit in the 1980s while sailing across the Atlantic. He developed a leak in his water tank three days out from the Canaries. This was shortly after independence and he had to wait for water to arrive from Africa.
After reading various pilot books about the Cape Verde I was unsure about visiting, but I am so glad we did. After a fast and rolly passage from the Canaries we sailed into the comparative calm of Mindelo bay. We had a choice of anchoring or a berth in the Marina. We chose to anchor and found the holding was very good. The gusty wind can get very strong, so it is important to have good ground tackle, but the way is relatively free from swell. If using the marina (which is not cheep), make sure you have plenty of strong lines and good fenders. There is no mole protecting the marina from any swell that might find its way into the bay. The marina has a bar beside which one can leave a dingy. Officially one is asked to pay 4 Euros to do this, but in practice a drink in the marina bar seems to be sufficient. For this you get security for you dingy and outboard, if you have one.
We did try to leave the dingy on the beach. Simon rowed ashore leaving me on the boat. I watched through binoculars as our dingy anchor was stolen! Such a shame as we would much prefer to leave the dingy on the beach beside the fishermen.
But the vast majority of people are friendly and helpful. Once after taking money out of the cash machine a local lady indicated that I should put both care and money safely away before walking off.
Water can be bought from the marina, either by going alongside and filling up at the fuel berth or by filling jerry cans. If you are berthed in the marina then you are given a set water ration which is free. After this you have to start paying for the water by the litre. All water is metered, including taking a shower!
The outdoor market has a good selection of fruit and veg and is a pleasure to use. The ladies on the stalls are friendly and helpful. I did some cross checking with prices, comparing with the shops, and there is not much difference in prices. They may try and ask for a little more, but will quickly reduce the prices to the same as the shops. I always got them to write down the price in my book before perchance, just to make sure I was not overcharged. However in the market the produce is of a better quality. We did not see any avocados and the apples and oranges were all refrigerated, which is not good for provisioning. On the plus side the eggs were the best we have had on our voyage so far.
With a bit of Spanish, French and English we managed to communicate adequately with most people. It is great to talk to people and hear a bit about their stories. We heard about the percussionist who had played with The Rolling Stones and the man who stowed away on a tanker at the age of 16! There is a lot of begging, lots of people will ask for money. But we were not pestered. We just smiled and said no. When walking into town from the marina there are a few guys who will talk to you and make fiends with you. If you need any help with anything, then I am told they can be very useful. We think that many people may give them their remaining Cape Verde money, just before leaving.
We were here for Carnival on the 17th February and it was great fun. I did not feel at all threatened at any time while were were in Mindelo even during the Carnival . The lead up to the big day there were parades and loud music, often live. The town filled up with people who watched the amazing parades that lasted all afternoon and into the evening.
There are many nice restaurants and cafes, many of which have internet and often live music during the evening. The late Cesaria Evora is Mindelos most famous musician, she made famous the Cape Verdian music of Morna.
We are so pleased we visited Mindelo and next time we plan to visit some of the other islands.
If you want to read more about Cape Verde then Jill for Yacht Mollymawk has written some wonderful articles on her blog Jill Dickin Schinas, Yacht Mollymawk on Sao Vicente.
Witten by JoJo
Mindelo on the island of Sao Vicente, in the Cape Verde is situated off the west coast of Africa. It is is the main port in the Cape Verde and the best anchorage. These islands are increasingly being visited by yachtsmen of all nationalities. I have wanted to visit ever since my father wrote about his unscheduled visit in the 1980s while sailing across the Atlantic. He developed a leak in his water tank three days out from the Canaries. This was shortly after independence and he had to wait for water to arrive from Africa.
After reading various pilot books about the Cape Verde I was unsure about visiting, but I am so glad we did. After a fast and rolly passage from the Canaries we sailed into the comparative calm of Mindelo bay. We had a choice of anchoring or a berth in the Marina. We chose to anchor and found the holding was very good. The gusty wind can get very strong, so it is important to have good ground tackle, but the way is relatively free from swell. If using the marina (which is not cheep), make sure you have plenty of strong lines and good fenders. There is no mole protecting the marina from any swell that might find its way into the bay. The marina has a bar beside which one can leave a dingy. Officially one is asked to pay 4 Euros to do this, but in practice a drink in the marina bar seems to be sufficient. For this you get security for you dingy and outboard, if you have one.
We did try to leave the dingy on the beach. Simon rowed ashore leaving me on the boat. I watched through binoculars as our dingy anchor was stolen! Such a shame as we would much prefer to leave the dingy on the beach beside the fishermen.
But the vast majority of people are friendly and helpful. Once after taking money out of the cash machine a local lady indicated that I should put both care and money safely away before walking off.
Water can be bought from the marina, either by going alongside and filling up at the fuel berth or by filling jerry cans. If you are berthed in the marina then you are given a set water ration which is free. After this you have to start paying for the water by the litre. All water is metered, including taking a shower!
The outdoor market has a good selection of fruit and veg and is a pleasure to use. The ladies on the stalls are friendly and helpful. I did some cross checking with prices, comparing with the shops, and there is not much difference in prices. They may try and ask for a little more, but will quickly reduce the prices to the same as the shops. I always got them to write down the price in my book before perchance, just to make sure I was not overcharged. However in the market the produce is of a better quality. We did not see any avocados and the apples and oranges were all refrigerated, which is not good for provisioning. On the plus side the eggs were the best we have had on our voyage so far.
With a bit of Spanish, French and English we managed to communicate adequately with most people. It is great to talk to people and hear a bit about their stories. We heard about the percussionist who had played with The Rolling Stones and the man who stowed away on a tanker at the age of 16! There is a lot of begging, lots of people will ask for money. But we were not pestered. We just smiled and said no. When walking into town from the marina there are a few guys who will talk to you and make fiends with you. If you need any help with anything, then I am told they can be very useful. We think that many people may give them their remaining Cape Verde money, just before leaving.
We were here for Carnival on the 17th February and it was great fun. I did not feel at all threatened at any time while were were in Mindelo even during the Carnival . The lead up to the big day there were parades and loud music, often live. The town filled up with people who watched the amazing parades that lasted all afternoon and into the evening.
There are many nice restaurants and cafes, many of which have internet and often live music during the evening. The late Cesaria Evora is Mindelos most famous musician, she made famous the Cape Verdian music of Morna.
We are so pleased we visited Mindelo and next time we plan to visit some of the other islands.
If you want to read more about Cape Verde then Jill for Yacht Mollymawk has written some wonderful articles on her blog Jill Dickin Schinas, Yacht Mollymawk on Sao Vicente.
Witten by JoJo
Arrecife and Christmas by Lochlann
Arrecife, Lanzarote Christmas 2014
The evening we arrived in Arrecife, the main town of Lanzarote, we had to anchor on top of a rocky and stony seabed. This meant our anchor might drag, so Fin and I had to swim the anchor into place manually. The visibility was fabulous and the job was easy. We also put the fisherman's anchor out, just to make sure. Then we found a concret block in the right position for us, so we attached to that too! We were not going anywhere and now Mum would sleep well!
The evening we arrived in Arrecife, the main town of Lanzarote, we had to anchor on top of a rocky and stony seabed. This meant our anchor might drag, so Fin and I had to swim the anchor into place manually. The visibility was fabulous and the job was easy. We also put the fisherman's anchor out, just to make sure. Then we found a concret block in the right position for us, so we attached to that too! We were not going anywhere and now Mum would sleep well!
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| Growing on Lanzarote. |
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| Lanzarote camels. |
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